Extend this line to make a small cross on the long pencil line. Now mark carefully the center of each leg of the pull on the pencil line. Center the pull on the plywood as best you can and slide the edges of the pull so they just touch the pencil line you drew. Place the pull on the piece of plywood as if the plywood is a cabinet front. See if the screw hole isn't centered in each leg of the pull. Lay your jig on a flat surface so that the wood block hangs over the edge of the surface and the small plywood is flat. The 1 and 1/8-inch measurement is half the width of your face frames. That's the sum of 3/4 inch and 1 and 1/8 inch.
Measuring from the 3/4 by 3/4 block down the plywood, you want to make this line 1 and 7/8 inches. If it is, take a very sharp pencil and make a line that's parallel with the long edge of the plywood. You need to ensure the face frame of the drawers and doors is exactly 2 and 1/4 inches. Now you have to hunker down and measure correctly. This block of wood will rest on the top of the drawers or on the edge of the doors so that the plywood laps over onto the frames. At the top edge of this piece of plywood I glue a 6-inch-long piece of 3/4 by 3/4 piece of wood making sure the top edge of the plywood is perfectly aligned with the strip of wood. The height of the plywood can be 3 to 4 inches. For standard D-handle cabinet pulls, I cut a piece of thin 1/4-inch plywood about 6-inches wide. The way I make my jig takes very little time.
You can buy stock plastic jigs and templates, but they don't always have the holes in the locations for my liking. That's why I take the time at the beginning of a job like this and make my own custom jig. I agree that there is little room for error. The slender D-handle pulls can be a challenge to work with if you've got little experience. If you do everything right, the result can be seen on the pull-out drawer just below where the D-handle pull is installed perfectly. See how the custom jig fits over the face frame.
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